Feltre, the Painted City
 

Feltre owes the epithet “Urbs Picta”, Painted City, to the wealth of palazzi in the Centro Storico with superbly decorated facades. After the destruction of 1509-1510, the desire to rebuild and reaffirm the identity of the town led to the creation of many buildings which united Nordic tastes and Venetian influences.

 

A stroll through the historic center is like a visit to an open air museum as we admire the facades of the various palazzi: Crico-Tauro, Salce-Aldovini-Mezzanotte, Cantoni, Muffoni, de Mezzan, Bizzarini, Zucco and Bellati.

 
Where to begin?
 
The main access to the citadel is through the 16th Century Porta Imperiale, whose name is suspended between myth and memory and bears witness to the solemn passage of ancient sovereigns.
The foundations of the Porta are of medieval origin, but it was altered in 1489 as part of the construction work carried out on the Renaissance walls by Dionysio da Viterbo, an engineer from the Venetian Republic. It is likely that at that time the the site of the Porta was moved  for strategic reasons, away from the axis of Via Mezzaterra.
 

The defensive structure was further altered in 1500 and must have suffered damage during the fire of 1510, insofar as restoration work is recorded in 1547, and its definitive  inauguration took place in 1595, when its defensive functions had been replaced  by a purely symbolic role.

   

Having passed through the Porta, the little square of Mercato Vecchio, known today as Piazzetta Trento o Triestre, opens out. The Piazzetta is characterized by two opposing faces: the one on the left is strictly Renaissance, relieved by a short painted portico; the one on the right, once fitted with specular porticoes, dates from the middle of the 19th Century and its distinguished by the more imposing masses of Pazzo Zugni and Palazzo Berton, which look out over Largo Castaldi. The Palazzi are the fruit of the outstanding construction work and town planning of Giuseppe Segusini.

 

Via Mezzaterra starts here. It is an ancient strata maior which passes through the whole length of the old town centre and culminates in Piazza Maggiore, before becoming Via Luzzo and descending toward Porta Oria. Precious architectural wings rise up along the short and scenic slope. In clearly Venetian style, these housed the rooms set aside for the shops and workshops on the ground floor, while the living quarters were situated on the upper floors.

 
The town's renaissance image has remained substantially unchanged and, were it not for the cars, the effect would be like travelling through time.
 

Palazzo Crico rises up on the left, at the beginning of the slope. The Palazzo is a notable example of 16th Century construction and was built by Andrea Crico, a merchant belonging to the Arte della Lana (woolcraft) guild.  It is friezed with refined sculptured details, such as the elegant little balcony in fretworked stone, and with an important frescoed decoration, the work of Lorenzo Luzzo, perhaps the most important of Feltre's painters.

 

the fresco represents L'dultera davanti a Cristo (The  AAdulterer before Christ) and Il Sacrificio di Isacco (  The Sacrifice of Isaac) amidst sophisticated mock architecture crowned bu lunetts with allegorical figures of the Virtu' (Virtues). The fashion for frescoed facades is visible on all sides, at every step along the path, sometimes emerging timidly from under peeling plaster, at others imposing itself by force in ample and varied decorative cycles.

 

After passing the entrance to Via Bilesimo, with its  lovely view of the Palazzo of the same name, there is a small building on the left, at the end of the portico, which is marked by the coat of arms of the Venetian Podesta' Antonio Boldu'; a little further on, along Salita Torresino da Corte, can be seen a frescoed fragment of a radiant sun, the symbol of Beato Bernardino Tomitano, borrowed from the more famous one of Saint Bernardino da Siena.

 
 

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Region

Veneto

Province

Belluno.

Elevation

325 m

Population

20,560

Demonym

Feltrini

Time

CET(UTC+1)

Postal

32032

Dialing

0439

Patron

St. Victor

 

 

 

 

 
   
     

 

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